Fabric choice sets most of a garment’s price, handfeel and lead time. Pick the weight in GSM first, then yarn quality, knit or weave construction, and finish. Typical cotton T-shirts run 160–200 GSM, fleece 280–400 GSM and denim 8–14 oz. Custom colours need a dye lot of roughly 1,000 metres or more.
What product families do Bangladeshi factories make best?
Bangladeshi production is strongest where cotton is the main fibre and the construction is repeatable. Knit garments (T-shirts, polos, hoodies, joggers, sleepwear, kidswear) are the largest group, and knitwear is largely supported by local spinning, knitting and dyeing mills. Denim and woven bottoms are well established, although woven fabric is more often imported. Sweaters are a fast-growing segment. Technical synthetics, seamless knitting and complex outerwear exist but are thinner than in China, so check capability early.
Browse the category pages for specifications and minimums: T-shirts, hoodies and sweatshirts, denim and woven shirts.
How do you choose fabric weight in GSM?
GSM (grams per square metre) is the number every supplier quotes. More GSM means more yarn per garment, so higher cost and a heavier hand. Ranges below are common starting points for cotton fabrics; confirm the tolerance (commonly ±5%) in your specification.
| Product | Typical fabric | GSM range | Approx. oz/yd² |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight T-shirt | Single jersey | 140–160 | 4.1–4.7 |
| Standard T-shirt | Single jersey | 160–200 | 4.7–5.9 |
| Heavyweight T-shirt | Single jersey | 220–260 | 6.5–7.7 |
| Polo shirt | Piqué | 200–240 | 5.9–7.1 |
| Hoodie or sweatshirt | Brushed fleece or French terry | 280–400 | 8.3–11.8 |
| Shirting | Poplin or oxford | 100–150 | 2.9–4.4 |
| Chino or trouser | Cotton twill | 200–280 | 5.9–8.3 |
| Jeans | Denim | 270–475 (8–14 oz) | 8–14 |
Why does yarn type matter as much as GSM?
Two fabrics of the same GSM can feel and wear very differently because of the yarn. Three terms matter in a specification:
- Carded vs combed. Combing removes short fibres, giving a smoother, stronger, less pill-prone yarn at higher cost.
- Ring-spun vs open-end (OE). Ring-spun yarn is finer and softer; open-end is cheaper and coarser and common in budget fleece and basics.
- Yarn count. In cotton, Ne 30/1 is a common T-shirt yarn; a higher number is finer. A finer count at the same GSM means a denser, more premium fabric.
Always state yarn type and count alongside GSM in the tech pack. Otherwise a factory may quote on the cheapest yarn that meets the weight.
Which knit and woven constructions should you know?
| Construction | What it is | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Single jersey | Plain knit with a smooth face and a looped back | T-shirts, base layers |
| Rib | Knit with vertical ridges that stretch and recover | Cuffs, collars, fitted tops |
| Interlock | Two interlocked rib layers; smooth on both sides | Premium tops, sleepwear, polos |
| Piqué | Textured knit with a small honeycomb pattern | Polo shirts |
| French terry | Loops on the back, smooth face | Lightweight sweatshirts, joggers |
| Fleece | Terry back brushed to a soft pile | Hoodies, sweatpants |
| Poplin | Plain weave, fine and crisp | Shirts, dresses |
| Twill | Diagonal weave, durable | Chinos, jackets, denim |
How does colour approval work, and what is a dye lot?
Colour is approved in stages. A lab dip is a small dyed swatch matched to your Pantone or physical reference. For printed fabric, a strike-off shows the print on real cloth. Approved colours are then reproduced in bulk in a dye lot, one batch of fabric dyed together.
Mills dye in minimum lots, so a custom colour has a floor. In our planning figures a lot is roughly 1,000 metres of fabric, enough for around a thousand T-shirts, which is why custom-dyed fabric raises the MOQ. Stock fabric in a mill’s running colours avoids the floor. Shade variation between lots is normal, so cut a garment style from a single lot wherever possible and agree a shade-continuity standard such as a shade band.
Which finishes and fabric tests matter?
Finishes change handfeel, look and performance: enzyme wash for softness, garment dye for a lived-in colour, stone or acid wash on denim, brushing on fleece, and silicone softeners. Each adds cost and a processing step. Ask for a wash sample before approving bulk.
Tests turn handfeel claims into numbers. The ones most buyers specify are dimensional change after washing (shrinkage, ISO 5077 after ISO 6330 washing), colour fastness to washing, rubbing and perspiration (ISO 105 series), pilling (Martindale method, ISO 12945-2), and fibre content. Retailers often add chemical restrictions; see the compliance guide.
Does local or imported fabric change lead time?
Yes, and it is a frequent source of surprises. Programmes that use fabric knitted and dyed at a vertically integrated mill can move from order to cutting quickly. Programmes that depend on imported woven fabric or specialised denim add fabric transit and customs time before cutting can start, and that can exceed the sewing time. When you compare quotes, ask where the fabric comes from and what fabric lead time is built into the schedule. Use the MOQ and lead-time estimator to see the effect.
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KEY NUMBERS
- Standard cotton T-shirt weightSource: Common industry range; Giga Sourcing specification guidance · as of Oct 1, 2026
- 160–200 GSM
- Fleece for hoodiesSource: Common industry range · as of Oct 1, 2026
- 280–400 GSM
- Conversion, oz/yd² to g/m²Source: Unit definition (SI conversion) · as of Oct 1, 2026
- × 33.906
- Dye lot, planning figureSource: Giga Sourcing planning figure; varies by mill · as of Oct 1, 2026
- ~1,000 m
KEY NUMBERS · SOURCES LISTED BELOW · CITE THIS
Frequently asked questions
What GSM is a good T-shirt?
For a standard cotton T-shirt, 160–200 GSM is the common range. Below 160 is lightweight and may be see-through in light colours; 220 GSM and above is heavyweight.
What is the difference between combed and carded cotton?
Combed cotton has short fibres removed, producing a smoother, stronger, less pill-prone yarn at higher cost. Carded cotton is cheaper and has a slightly rougher hand.
Why does custom colour raise the minimum order?
Mills dye fabric in whole lots. A custom colour must cover a full lot, roughly 1,000 metres in our planning figures, whether or not your order uses all of it.
How do I convert denim ounces to GSM?
Multiply oz/yd² by 33.906. A 12 oz denim is about 407 GSM.
Should I specify yarn count in the tech pack?
Yes. State fibre, yarn type (combed or carded, ring-spun or open-end), yarn count and GSM. Otherwise factories may quote on the cheapest yarn that reaches the weight.
Sources
- ASTM D3776: Standard test methods for mass per unit area (weight) of fabric · 2020
- ISO 5077: Textiles, determination of dimensional change in washing and drying · 2007
- ISO 12945-2: Textiles, determination of fabric propensity to surface pilling (Martindale) · 2020
- Giga Sourcing planning figures (dye lot, ranges) · Oct 1, 2026